Dyed-In-The-Cool

After the hundred-odd stories that the Gandhi topi spawned during Anna Hazare’s fast, not a single designer sent one down the ramp at the recent Van Heusen India Men’s Week 2011. Indeed, replication is passe in Indian fashion and experimentation is in. Consider the Nehru jacket, the traditional dhoti, khadi, mojris and other staples of ethnic wear; they all have a new body. Symbolism is no longer obligatory as creativity takes over to lend us a new wardrobe of Indian separates.

Nehru Jacket

Then: Made from cashmere, wool or khadi, the Nehru jacket blends in the collar of the achkan with the hip-length Western suit jacket. It was popularised by India’s first PM, Jawaharlal Nehru, and has been worn by leaders and politicians since. A Nehru jacket craze caught on in the late-sixties and early-seventies and none less than The Beatles wore it to their famous Shea Stadium performance in 1965.

Now : The fad resurfaced in the early 2000s. In 2002, designer Ermenegildo Zegna designed a ‘guru suit’ with a Nehru jacket. And in 2009, John Mayer turned up at the 51st Grammy Awards in a Giorgio Armani’s military-inspired black suit with a Nehru jacket.

Designer Arjun Khanna points out that the jacket has become more fitted compared to its earlier boxy version and can be easily paired with jeans. “My Nehru jackets had a variety of fabrics from velvet and leather to linen and wool. For some jackets, I have thrown in zippers to lend them an edgy biker feel. I have included watch buttons and embroidery too,” he notes.

Dhoti Pants

Then: The dhoti is a rectangular piece of unstitched cotton cloth, seven yards long, wrapped around and knotted at the waist. It’s worn for traditional occassions by men. The dhoti transcended caste; Brahmins wore it, as did the others.

Now : A dhoti pant drapes loosely at the upper leg area and tapers gradually towards the hemline. Other variations include cropped and tapered versions, with front or side zippers and buttoned ends. Designer Gaurav Gupta asserts that his dhoti drapes spell androgyny. “I have experimented with draping, pleating and zippers and my fabrics vary from wool and rayon to canvas and cotton,” he says. Others who dwell on this silhouette are Masaba Gupta and Nikasha Tawadey.

Gandhi Topi

Then: A white-coloured khadi cap, pointed in front and back, with a wide band, the Gandhi topi became popular during the Independence movement. Consequently, it became a symbol of non-cooperation against the British Raj.

Now : Designer Ravi Bajaj, who showed colourful polka-dotted and moulded versions of the Gandhi topi, says that it makes a strong statement on the ramp. “I wanted people to look beyond sheer symbolism; so I paired them with tailored suits. It was a rebellion of sorts,” he admits. Other fans include Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Tarun Tahiliani.

Khadi

Then: Khadi is spun on a charkha. Earlier, it was regarded as the fabric for rural India and politicians. Plain khadi kurtas and saris were the order of the day and freedom fighters wore khadi as it spelt swadeshi.

Now: Today, it is fashion fabric. Ritu Kumar, for one, has been a khadi loyalist. “Khadi is no longer a rustic piece of clothing; it’s in a class of its own. I love using a khadi base for the gota embroidery on my lehengas as its matte look only highlights the sheen of the intricate embroidery,” she says. Others who have worked with khadi include Lecoanet Hemant and Rajesh Pratap Singh.


Mojris

Then: Mojri is handcrafted ethnic footwear produced in India and Pakistan. In the ancient times, they were embroidered with gold and silver threads and decorated with precious gems and pearls. Later on, these flat-soled mojris were made with artificial materials, beads and bells.

Now: Abraham and Thakore reworked the mojri in a funky way for their Autumn Winter 2010 collection. They showed a stylish range of black and gold, and white and black mojri platforms. “We did away with the embroidery and highlighted the contrast between the traditional and our new version,” says Abraham.